Draught-proofing around windows and doors could save you money, but also help the our planet by using less of its resources.
Draught-free homes are comfortable at lower temperatures – so you may be able to turn down your thermostat saving even more on your energy bills.
Dealing with draughts
Draughts happen where there are unwanted gaps in the construction of your home, and where openings are left uncovered. You’ll find draughts at any accidental gap in your home that leads outside. You should block most of these – but be careful in areas that need good ventilation, such as:
- areas where there are open fires or open flues
- rooms where a lot of moisture is produced, such as the kitchen, bathrooms and utility rooms
We take a look at some of the most common areas to find draughts and what to do about them.
For windows that open, buy draught-proofing strips to stick around the window frame and fill the gap between the window and the frame. There are two types:
- Self-adhesive foam strips – cheap, and easy to install, but may not last long.
- Metal or plastic strips with brushes or wipers attached – long-lasting, but cost a little more.
Make sure the strip is the right size to fill the gap in your window. If the strip is too big it will get crushed and you may not be able to close the window. If it's too small there will still be a gap.
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Draught-proofing outside doors can save a lot of heat and will only cost you a few pounds. There are four main things to consider.
- Keyhole – buy a purpose-made cover that drops a metal disc over the keyhole.
- Letterbox – use a letterbox flap or brush, but remember to measure your letterbox before you buy.
- Gap at the bottom – use a brush or hinged flap draught excluder.
- Gaps around the edges – fit foam, brush or wiper strips like those used for windows.
Inside doors need draught-proofing if they lead to a room you don’t normally heat, such as your spare room or kitchen. Keep those doors closed to stop the cold air from moving into the rest of the house. If there is a gap at the bottom of the door, block it with a draught excluder – you can make one stuffed with used plastic bags or bits of spare material.
Inside doors between two heated rooms don’t need draught-proofing, as you don’t lose energy when warm air circulates.
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