Olivem 1000 is an emulsifying wax approved for use in natural cosmetics formulations, EcoCert certified and considered more natural than alternative emulsifying waxes containing ethoxylated compounds. It is a self-emulsifying wax, what means it can be used on its own, without the help of other emulsifiers that would stabilize the emulsion.
It is delivered in form of white pellets and has no distinctive odor.
It is a mix of two components:
- sorbitan olivate – an ester of sorbitol (a sugar) and olive oil fatty acids
- cetearyl olivate – an ester of olive oil and cetearyl alcohol
Recommended use:
- for dry, dehydrated skin
- for injured, sensitive, inflammation prone skin (neurodermatitis, eczema, rosacea)
- for oily, normal and mixed skin
- for baby skin care
- for anti-aging, and mature skin
- in cosmetic products that has low or medium oil phase
- self-emulsifying skin care products with minimal oil content
- in low viscosity lotions, and medium consistency creams
Effects:
- self-emulsifying wax, that connects the water and oil phase in cosmetics
- regenerates and strengthens the lipid barrier layer of the skin, moisturizing
- skin-like fatty acid compound
- suitable to make very low oil phase cosmetics (emulsion gels)
- you can mix in water or oil later too
Applications:
- After Sun Skin Care
- Daily Wear Sun Care
- Eye Area Color Cosmetics
- Facial Cleansers
- Facial Color Cosmetics
- Facial Skin Care
- Hair Conditioners
- Hand & Body Care
- Nail Care
- Self-Tanners
Physical properties: Nonionic emulgent. Recommended oil phase: 4-25%. pH tolerance: 3-12
Dosage: 2-5%
Processing: Oil soluble. Can be processed inversely or directly.
Inverse method: Melt Olivem with the oil phase, heat it up to 80 °C, add the simlilarly heated water phase, the mix it well for 5 minutes to emulsify, while cooling it slowly to room temperature.
Direct method: Slowly mix the melted oil phase to the water phase heated up to 70-80°C, slowly let it cool to room temperature while mixing.
Emulsion gel: Add Olivem to the water phase heated up to 70-80°C, mix it well for a while to homogenize, and let it cool to room temperature.
Emulsion made with Olivem reaches its final viscosity on the next day. You can increase the stability of low viscosity emulsions by adding 0,3% xanthan.
Olivem is 100% plant based o/w emulsifier, it is PEG free, but made in a chemical process. It is Ecocert certified, and made of organically farmed plant ingredients, so it can be used in organic cosmetics too. It is a special ingredient because it also skin nourishing besides being an excellent emulsifier.
This PEG-free self-emulsifying multifunctional ingredient (white to ivory waxy flakes at 20°C, melting point ~ 70°C), is a complex combination of fatty acids, chemically similar to the lipidic composition of the skin surface. It has the ability to generate liquid crystal structures that mimic the stratum corneum organization. As the sole emulsifier, it provides a deep moisturizing effect with excellent spreadability and no soapy effect. It has good compatibility with Dihydroxyacetone and with alpha-hydroxy acids and is useful in formulations with pH 3 – 12. Further, it is validated by Ecocert.
Olivem can be used on its own, it is compatible with most cosmetic ingredients, active agents and essential oils, it is easy to use: with the simple one-pot method: pouring together the oil and the water phase. You can make cosmetics with 5-25% oil content, smooth-textured emulsions (low viscosity lotions, fluids, milks, light and medium creams, balms) that can solve 20% water and 10% oil even afterwards.
Recipie idea with Olivem - Pregnant belly cream with rosehip oil
This cream contains rosehip (seed) oil which contains vitamin A, omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids, and is used for its properties as a skin repairing oil in anti-aging creams and scarf healing creams. It makes it ideal for pregnant belly to prevent stretch marks.
Ingredients:
Oil phase (38%): 15.5% Rosehip seed oil, 15.5% Jojoba oil, 7% Olivem
Water phase (60.8%): Rose water
Cool down phase: 1% Preservative, 0.2% rosewood essential oil
Instructions:
1) Sterilize your equipment.
2) In water bath heat the water phase to 70°C (158°F).
3) At the same time, heat your oil phase until Olivem 1000 melts and the phase reaches 70°C (158°F).
4) When both phases reach 70°C (158°F), take off the heat and add slowly the oil phase into the water phase while continuously stirring.
IMPORTANT! 70°C is the temperature that ensures good emulsification. Lower temperatures can cause separation of the two phases, higher temperatures would unnecessarily prolong the stirring time.
Tip: You can apply rosehip seed oil also directly on your skin.
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